Levada, ridge and Atlantic

Madeira is a mountain in the Atlantic. Plan around the weather, not the map.

Which levada walk needs a guide and which one needs a head torch. What the Pico do Arieiro sunrise transfer costs and how early it leaves. Whether the whales are there in March. Reviews of every tour you can book on the island.

329tours to book
from $12cheapest day out
105days out under $50
The ridge from Pico do Arieiro standing above the cloud layer
Into the interior

Levada, high ridge or jeep track: three ways into the middle of Madeira.

The centre of the island is laurel forest and volcanic ridge with no road straight through it. Three kinds of day get you in, and they cost very different things.

Where to begin

Funchal is the base. The rest of Madeira is the point.

A capital that fits in an afternoon, a laurel forest older than the country, lava pools on the north coast and a ridge you can stand on above the clouds. Six starting points, and the best day out from each.

Out on the Atlantic

The whales off Madeira are resident. That is the part nobody tells you.

Short-finned pilot whales and bottlenose dolphins live off this coast all year, and the water drops to a thousand metres within sight of the harbour wall, so the boats out of Funchal marina are back before lunch. Sperm whales pass through in summer.

Every boat trip
What sells out first

Madeira’s most-booked days out.

Every Madeira tour we have reviewed →

The tours more travellers take than anything else on the island, and what earns each of them the slot.

1
★★★★★★★★★★ 4.5 · 5,771 reviews

Ecological Catamaran Dolphin Whale Watching

Cruise Madeira’s coast on a quiet hybrid catamaran, search for dolphins and whales, then swim beneath Cabo Girão for $40.

From · $40

Read our review →
Levada walks

A levada is an irrigation channel. Walking one is half the reason to come to Madeira.

Five hundred years of hand-cut channels carry the rain from the wet north to the dry south, and a maintenance path runs beside every one. Rabaçal, Caldeirão Verde and Ribeiro Frio are shaded, close to flat and end at water. The tunnels are unlit and some of the drops are unfenced.

Every levada walk →
What it costs

What a day out on Madeira actually costs.

Every tour on the site, grouped by what it costs. The island is cheap for the Atlantic, and a good number of its best days come in under the price of dinner.

Under $50

Funchal walking tours, levada transfers, the toboggan run and most of the morning boats.

$50–150

Full-day 4x4 circuits, guided levada walks, canyoning and the longer sailings.

$150 and up

Private drivers, chartered boats and the once-a-trip splurges that earn it.

Only here

Three things that only happen on Madeira.

Volcanic islands and cliff paths exist all over the Atlantic. A wicker sledge steered by two men in straw hats, a forest that makes its own weather, and a village of thatched A-frames do not.

Downhill in wicker

The Monte Toboggan

Two men in white cotton and straw hats push a wicker basket on greased wooden runners down two kilometres of public road from Monte to Livramento. It began in the 1850s as the quick way down the hill and it never stopped being that. There are no brakes on the sledge; the men steer and slow it with the soles of their boots, and they replace the soles constantly.

  1. 1Nuns Valley, Monte and Sleigh Ride Tour★★★★★★★★★★ 4.6 · 1,829 reviews
  2. 2Guided Tuk Tuk Tour to Toboggan Rides & Old Town★★★★★★★★★★ 4.9 · 308 reviews
  3. 3Monte Tropical Garden & Toboggan Ride by Tuk Tuk★★★★★★★★★★ 4.8 · 227 reviews
See the full list →
Cloud on the ridge

Fanal

A plateau of thousand-year-old stinkwood laurels sits in a bowl on the north-west shoulder of the island, right where the trade-wind cloud pools. On a clear morning it is a field of gnarled trees on cropped grass. Twenty minutes later the mist comes over the ridge and you cannot see the next trunk. The mist is what people drive up for, and it is why the light there is never twice the same.

  1. 1Skywalk, Porto Moniz, Seixal, and Fanal 4WD Tour★★★★★★★★★★ 4.9 · 5,732 reviews
  2. 2Enchanted Terraces, Porto do Moniz & Fanal 4WD Tour★★★★★★★★★★ 4.8 · 4,930 reviews
  3. 3Porto Moniz, Seixal, Fanal Forest, Cliff Skywalk in Open Roof 4X4★★★★★★★★★★ 5.0 · 3,631 reviews
See the full list →
Thatch and paint

The Santana Houses

Palheiros — steep triangular cottages thatched to the ground and painted red, white and blue — were built on the wet north coast to shed rain and keep the animals housed below. A row of them still stands in Santana and the shape ends up on every postcard printed on the island. Almost every east-coast day trip stops here; it is worth the twenty minutes.

  1. 1East Tour Pico Arieiro & Santana&Laurissilva★★★★★★★★★★ 4.9 · 1,994 reviews
  2. 2Full Day Jeep Safari East – Pico do Areeiro – Santana – Ponta de são Lourenço★★★★★★★★★★ 5.0 · 819 reviews
  3. 3Santana & Peaks full day tour by Open 4×4★★★★★★★★★★ 4.8 · 295 reviews
See the full list →
Book ahead

Four Madeira bookings that will not wait.

Most of the island can be arranged over breakfast the day before. These four run on pre-dawn departures, guide ratios and a road you are not allowed to drive.

  1. 01Pico do Arieiro Sunrise Transfer Self-guided HikeThe transfer leaves Funchal in the dark to be on the ridge before the sun, and the minibuses are small. Sunrise slots go before the daytime ones, all year.
  2. 02Canyoning Madeira Island – Level OneGroup size is capped by guide ratio and the wetsuits come in finite sizes. Weekends fill well ahead of the weekdays either side.
  3. 03Enjoy a Guided Levada Walk in the Rabaçal ValleyThe road down to Rabaçal is closed to private cars, so the shuttle and the guided walks are the only way in and both cap numbers.
  4. 04Ecological Catamaran Dolphin Whale WatchingMorning departures get the calmest water, so they sell out before the afternoon ones on the same boat.
When the cloud sits down

The Madeiran peaks make their own weather. Keep a low-altitude plan.

One mountain, two climates. The north coast is wet, the south is dry, and the ridge above 1,500 metres can be inside a cloud while Funchal sits in full sun. Look at the peak webcam before you commit to a sunrise, and keep the old town, the wine lodges and the coast in reserve.

The Madeiran table

Espetada on a bay laurel skewer, bolo do caco, poncha you stir yourself.

Beef threaded onto a laurel branch and cooked over embers, garlic flatbread baked on a stone, black scabbard fish served with fried banana, and a drink of aguardente, honey and lemon stirred with a wooden mexelote. Book the market walk before the heat and the tasting after it.

Above the clouds

Pico do Arieiro at first light, with the island under a lid of cloud.

The road climbs to 1,818 metres and the transfers leave Funchal in the dark. From the top the trade-wind cloud sits below you and the ridge towards Pico Ruivo comes out of it in pieces. The walk on is roughly three hours each way through unlit tunnels and cut steps; plenty of people turn back at Ninho da Manta and are down in town for lunch.

Every peak and sunrise day →
Find your Madeira
The first week

Funchal, the west, the peaks, the east: the week almost everybody does first.

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